adult clothes

Pattern Review – Two Free Tank Top Patterns

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I’ve lived in Florida for almost five years now and my summer wardrobe is still lacking in tank tops! I only wear pants and long sleeves for maybe 2-3 weeks of the year and yet I’m pretty sure that I have more long sleeve shirts than tank tops. This summer I hope to remedy that! I’ve had this Lago tank top pattern by Itch to Stitch for over a year and I’m just getting around to making it. I actually printed it out shortly after I got it and then….well, I never made it. So, while I was at JoAnns the other day I found this soft drapey knit that I knew would be the perfect tank top.

The Lago is a super quick and easy tank to sew up! There are five pieces of fabric – front, back, neckband, and two arm bands. I’m pretty sure that it took me less than 30 minutes!

The Lago tank is absolutely free – no code, no Facebook group to join, just head over to her site and “buy” it!

Using free patterns is a great way to learn more about a designer. You get to try out one of their patterns and the only cost to you is some fabric and some time.

Another great free tank pattern is the Stardust by Halla. You have to join their Facebook group and then read the pinned post for the code, but it’s worth it! It’s available for sizes 00-30. There are several free patterns listed there (check out their dolman pattern). This is another pattern I’ve had for a while and never made (are you sensing a theme here?).

This pattern will work with knits that aren’t as drapey – like this cotton lycra print that I bought because I loved it and it just seems so appropriate for Florida! I made this tank top, but the pattern I used wasn’t made for knits that aren’t drapey. So, it ends up looking like a tent…not really a flattering look, plus after I got it made, I didn’t really like the handkerchief hemline. It slowly made it’s way to the bottom of my shirt pile. One day recently I decided to find a pattern that I could use to fix this shirt. Fortunately the Stardust tank top is a similar cut at the top, but a little more close fitting so I can upcycle my new tank top into another new tank top that I will actually wear! Also, I’ve learned to really pay attention to what kind of material a pattern requires!

The first step is to to fold the front and back in half. I’m not changing anything about the the arms or neckline so I don’t want to take it all apart. I unpicked the hem at the center back and center front folds so that it would be easy to rehem when I’m all done.

Carefully fold front and back in half

Since I’m not adjusting the neckline at all, I just lined that pattern up with the neck binding. This meant that the bottom edge of the pattern was exactly even with the part of the hem I unpicked.

Line up the neck.

I lined up the underarm as best I could. When I straighten the underarm seams out, it almost makes it to the edge of the pattern. Since I’m not adjusting the anything until about 3-4 inches down from the underarm seam, I didn’t worry about it. I already know that I like they way this part of the shirt fits.

Lining up underarm

After cutting out the new front and back, they were still attached everywhere but the new side seams. I clipped them together and sewed them.

Clip the new side seam

After I got them sewed, I had a weird curve near the underarm where the old and new pattern didn’t quite line up. I redid my seam (purple line) to straighten it out so that it doesn’t look funny.

Carefully straighten out the underarm seam.

When I tried it on, I loved it! What a difference the right pattern AND the right material make! I’m already planning for make a couple more of these!

Enjoy your new Stardust tank top!

Hop on over to the Halla Facebook group and get the codes for all the free patterns!

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Take In A Simple Skirt

I got this skirt in a bag of hand-me-downs. I love the print and the style, but it was a little too big. I looked at the waist and realized it would be so simple to take the waist/hips in a bit. There’s a zipper on the side that I absolutely do not want to mess with! I also don’t want to do anything to the hem. So, all my adjustments will taper out before I get to the hem.

Side invisible zipper that I'm not touching!

Before I could take anything in, I needed to undo the stitching holding the facing down. Fortunately this was easy since they just did a couple little stitches at each seam.

Undo the stitching tacking the facing down.

The easiest adjustment is to the back. There’s a seam down the center back that I can very easily take in. I tried on the skirt and clipped it where I want my back seam. Pin it and make sure to taper it in gradually so that you don’t need to mess with the hem. Sew it and try it on to make sure it fits. Then trim (and serge if you want) the excess from the seam.

Pin the back seam tapering it in towards the bottom.

To help balance out the amount I took in at the back (so the side seams aren’t noticeably towards the back), I also took in the front darts a little bit. I only took each dart in about 1/2″ (green line in photo below). After I tried it on again, I trimmed (and serge) the darts to help them lay flatter. Otherwise you end up with a really thick spot in the waistband which can be hard to make lay flat.

Take in the front darts.

The final step is the tack the facing back down again. Just a couple quick stitches on the side and back seams plus the front darts and it’s secured. Iron the facing and darts to flatten out the new seams and you are good to go!

Finished taking in the skirt

Shortening the Rise on Elastic Waist Shorts

FixingDroopyDrawers

Ever buy a pair of shorts (or pants, but I’m in Florida and basically live in shorts) and the rise is just too long? You feel like you’ve got them pulled up to your chest just to have them not look like droopy drawers. Most annoying! With kids, you can roll the waistband down, and chances are as they grow, they’ll grow into them and you won’t have to roll it anymore. However, as an adult, you probably aren’t going to grow into your shorts (or at least I hope not!) As long as they don’t have a functional fly, it’s actually very easy to fix!

First, I iron the waistband to get rid of the wrinkles and to make it easier to line up and sew in place.

Jeans shorts that are too long waisted

For kids, you roll the waistband down and to the outside simply because that’s the only way it works. However, for adults, you want to turn it to the inside so it can be sewn down. I turn it down on the seam and clip it into place.

Fold the wasitband in and clip it

Then, sew it down by sewing close to the bottom edge. I usually line up the outside edge of the presser foot with the bottom edge of the waistband. If you have thread that matches what the manufacturer used (in this case denim yellow) that’s fine, but in my case I went with navy blue so it wouldn’t show.

Sew the waist band down

All sewed and ready to go. It probably takes 10 minutes tops to do this – quick & easy!

Finished jeans shorts with waistband sewn down

The only thing that might be a problem is the pockets. You’ll be sewing through them and making the opening about two inches smaller. It shouldn’t be a problem, but it’s something to think about before you sew the waistband down.

The pocket will be slightly smaller

See – you can still fit your hand easily into the pocket. It’s not as deep as before either, but it’s still functional and there’s no more droopy drawers!

Even though the pocket opening is smaller, it isn't too small

Sewing Books and Patterns

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If you follow me on Instagram, then you know I recently discovered sewing books. I don’t know why it never occurred to me to look for sewing books, but…. I’ve read four so far (having a real job really cuts into my reading time!). I’m including the Amazon links to my favorite three books, but I found them at my local library in the non fiction section in the 646 section. Make sure to see what other books are there – I need to remember to check out that section at one of my local libraries (I have two close to me).

So far, my three favorite sewing books are The Magic Pattern by Amy Barickman, Make Your Own Patterns by Rene Bergh, and The Sewing Bible by Ruth Singer. All three of these books teach you about sewing and patterns and then have some projects for you to try.

Make Your Own Patterns

This book details how to design and/or alter patterns that are custom fit for you (or your spouse or your child or whomever you choose). If you are interested in designing your own patterns or altering existing ones, this is the book for you. It includes all the measurements you need to draft or modify a well fitting pattern. Bodices, necklines, sleeves, blouses/tops, jackets, skirts, dresses, and trousers are all covered. There are also basic quarter size patterns that you can enlarge and then customize to your size and style using either their ideas or your own.

The Magic Pattern

This book comes with a CD with the patterns from the book. The idea of making six different items from one pattern is intriguing. In theory, you could make an entire wardrobe with just these patterns (and the book gives you suggestions for taking the patterns from one season to the next). The six patterns are a tank top, skirt, dress, cardigan, coat, and accessory (hat). Add your favorite pair of shorts, jeans, and/or leggings and you’re all set. I did find the list of tools you will need to get started to be a little bit excessive. My list of sewing tools you need to get started includes only the basics. I do like the description of different kinds of fabric you can use. Printing these patterns is very much like PDF patterns that you can buy – print the pattern, measure the test square, and then fit the pieces together. There is good information on adjusting the pattern and finishing techniques.

The Sewing Bible

This book has so much information about all kinds of sewing techniques! You can learn about hand sewing and machine sewing in this book. There are so many hand sewing stitches. Several that I’ve never heard of and did you know you can sew buttonholes by hand? Yikes! Might be OK for just one, but I can’t imagine trying to make several all look the same! Plus, I’ve made friends with my button hole maker on my sewing machine. You can learn quilting basics, different seam types, different ways to install a zipper as well as other fasteners. There are so many different kinds of seams! You can learn about shirring and smocking. After you’ve learned the practical and decorative techniques, there are projects you can do. This book is a great reference guide for both beginners and advanced sewers (sew-ers).

What’s your favorite sewing book?

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How To Sew – Making A Dolman Plus Get A Free Pattern

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MotherDaughterDolmans

I was so excited because I really wanted to do a dolman style shirt for the next easy pattern and I recently discovered a free one! You have to join the Facebook group to get the code for it. The wide range of sizes (00-26) is another reason I like this pattern – I can make shirts for my daughter and me from the same pattern. She’s a teenager and sometimes she fits kids sizes and sometimes she doesn’t.

Dolman Slim Fit

Dolmans are really easy because there are no sleeves to sew in since they are part of the body (although there are options to add long sleeves to it). Two seams, a neck band, sleeve hems, and the bottom hem. This pattern is also for knits so you’ll need a ball point needle. Either a size 14 or 11 (The thinner the material the smaller needle number).

Halla Slim Fit Dolman

I decided to have my daughter make one of these with me – just to show how easy it is. Her least favorite part is pinning and cutting and yes, we’re on the floor…not ideal, but it works in a pinch.

Learning to cut out a pattern

Just to keep things real – she didn’t actually get to sew her shirt. My machine was giving her fits – skipping stitches. It turned out that I was using the wrong size needle and then the needle was bent just the slightest bit. By the time I realized that, she was done. Since I don’t want to force her to sew, I finished up her shirt.

Even though this pattern is free, there are still options! Don’t like the slim fit? You can make it less fitted. Want bat wing style sleeves? You can do that too. The best part is, these are techniques that you can use to alter other patterns you have. There are two neckline options. For my daughter, I did the higher neckline and for mine, I went with the lower neckline – still perfectly modest, just not as high. I tried on the shirt before I put the neckband on and was concerned that the neck was going to be too big. Never fear, once the neckband was on, it fit perfectly!

Halla Slim Fit Dolman Front and Back

The dolman pairs perfectly with the Chloe maxi skirt (also free and super easy) from Made for Mermaids (which is what we’re wearing in our matching pictures). I’m sure that at some point in the future, my teenager won’t want to match me, but for now she loves it.

Halla Slim Fit Dolman and Made for Mermaids Chloe

The Hallå Slim Fit Dolman is available for women in sizes 00-26. Join their facebook group to get the code to get it free (read the pinned post).

Another option for a dolman pattern is the Sun Kissed Tee dolman by Peek-a-Boo Pattern Shop. It is NOT free, however she does have sales on occasion. It’s a simple no frills pattern, but there’s an option to add ruching to the sides which is why I love the pattern! I think the ruching adds a nice touch and it’s really not that hard. There are others with more sleeve and hem options, but for beginners, I really like these two.

Dolman shirt with ruched sides.